Water sommelier spills the beans on how high-quality water brews better coffee

You’re forgiven for not knowing that Sept. 29 is National Coffee Day. For many people, every day is coffee day, and this beloved morning beverage only seems to be gaining ground.

But when it comes to steeping beans in boiling water, modern drinkers have a lot to consider, from brewing method to grind fineness. While most folks probably only need to worry about which K-cup to pop in their Keurig, the next generation of coffee aficionados knows that every factor contributes to the perfect cup. And that means makers of coffee products, whether they’re ready-to-drink (RTD) beverages or simply bags of beans, have much to consider, too.

I sat down with Anastasia Chovan, certified water sommelier at Vivreau, a leading provider of sustainable water solutions, to discuss all the ways in which water quality affects the flavors and aromas in a cup of joe.

SupplySide Food & Beverage Journal: As a certified water sommelier, what criteria do you use during water tastings to evaluate water for coffee brewing?

Anastasia Chovan: When we taste water to determine how it will impact coffee, we evaluate three categories: taste, odor and mouthfeel. At Vivreau, we use a water wheel to determine the taste of water, which further breaks down these categories. Water can taste sour, bitter, sweet, salty or alkaline. For instance, high concentrations of sodium and chloride ions in salty water can make coffee taste salty.

SupplySide Food & Beverage Journal: Given that water comprises about 98% of a coffee brew, could you share how different types of water (tap, filtered, bottled, etc.) might influence the taste of coffee?

Chovan: Tap water contains geographic minerals and pollutants from its source region, including organic substances like algae, as well as disinfectants such as chlorine used to treat these impurities. The effect is water that tastes and smells earthy, which can impact the flavor of coffee. Filtered tap water balances the minerals in the water and removes the disinfectants. Finally, most bottled water is purified through reverse osmosis, which typically removes everything from the water and doesn’t leave enough minerals for the coffee to bind with.

SupplySide Food & Beverage Journal: How does the mineral content of water alter the extraction process of coffee grounds?

Chovan: Certain minerals like magnesium and sodium can taste sweet and add sweetness to the coffee. Other minerals like calcium and hydrogen carbonate can alter the coffee to taste bitter, flat and dry. The more hydrogen carbonate in the water, the less sour the resulting coffee will taste, which can lead to the bitterness and intensity of the coffee’s roast being perceived as more prominent.

When chemicals or minerals are in the water, they cause a metallic smell or sweet taste and the flavor of the coffee will also smell or taste different than expected. If water has too many minerals, the coffee may leave a chalky mouthfeel. However, in the right proportions, these substances are also responsible for the rich aroma and taste of coffee.

SupplySide Food & Beverage Journal: Could you explore how climate change is affecting water quality and coffee quality globally?
Chovan: Climate change is impacting water quality, with rising temperatures and an increase in the frequency of floods and droughts expected to worsen various forms of water pollution, including sediments, pathogens and pesticides.

In general, changes in light exposure, altitude, water stress, temperature, carbon dioxide and nutrient management can all have an impact on coffee quality. Studies have shown that a lower altitude is associated with a decreased sensory attribute of coffee and high light exposure is associated with decreased sensory attributes of coffee. Although there is still a gap in long-term studies that capture the impact of environmental exposure on coffee quality, one thing is certain: Coffee-producing regions already experience climate conditions outside optimal ranges with heat waves and droughts. In addition, as sea water warms, it becomes saltier due to the chloride increasing. Chloride can alter the taste of coffee to be bitter and cause major issues with coffee equipment.

SupplySide Food & Beverage Journal: Looking ahead, what are some emerging trends or innovations in water treatment that could influence the coffee industry?

Chovan: Due to drought and extreme weather, water is being treated with chloramine for algae blooms. In the past, reverse osmosis was needed to treat chloramine. Now, there are other options available, like Vivreau’s Purity C Advanced and XtraSafe to treat chloramine and chlorides in the water and elevate the sensory experience of beverages like coffee.